The man at the wheel is wearing a white shirt and mirrored sunglasses. Even though the sun is shining and not a cloud is in the sky, the thermometer shows just over ten degrees Celsius. Despite this, many people are boarding. Instead of suits and briefcases, they are wearing hiking boots and backpacks. Some are even in shorts. Only the two nuns in their habits stand out, clothing-wise. At exactly 8:40 a.m., the doors close, and the bus leaves Ostbahnhof, its railway tracks, and the concrete city behind.
Alix Nepveux is also drawn out of the city. The Frenchwoman moved to Munich three years ago. “Paris is beautiful, but it lacks mountains,” says the 28-year-old. She is now making up for what she missed back home and often travels to the Alps. She is using the mountain bus for the first time today. As she doesn’t own a car, it was the best alternative. On top of that, her “Deutschlandticket” means she doesn’t have to pay anything. The young woman plans to climb the 1,759-meter-high Aiplspitz peak near Fischbachau in the Miesbach district.
The destination “Hinterthiersee” glows in orange letters above the bus’s windshield. That’s already in Austria, a little northwest of Kufstein. On the way there, the mountain bus makes repeated stops at destinations that are otherwise hard to reach by public transport. This was the idea behind the German Alpine Club’s (DAV) 2021 “Münchner Bergbus” project. At that time, due to travel restrictions during the COVID-19 pandemic, more and more people were heading to the Alps. “People want to go to the mountains anyway,” says Hannah Trowal, a spokesperson for the Munich and Oberland section. She is therefore convinced that the DAV isn’t exacerbating the rush to the mountains but is instead providing a climate-friendly way to travel. And those who take the bus aren’t taking up parking spaces either.
Renate and Edith also want a stress-free day. The seniors from the Munich district keep fit with their “Hiking Group 60+.” “It’s always good to keep moving,” says Edith. The 84-year-old has no prior experience with the mountain bus, but her friend Renate does. “I find it more relaxing than the train,” says the 75-year-old. She heard about the service from the newspaper. Their journey ends in Bayrischzell, where they will hike through the Leitzach Valley. “Hopefully, we’ll manage without any traffic jams.”
Of course, the mountain bus isn’t immune to traffic either. Today, the A8 motorway is also well-filled with cars and trucks. But in this large carpool, the traffic jam isn’t quite as annoying. A little chat here, another there. And soon, the traffic clears. As the bus leaves the motorway, the view from the window becomes increasingly idyllic. At Lake Schliersee, the day-trippers look out longingly. Daniela Ullmann is also enjoying the view. In a few hours, the 43-year-old will be looking down into the valley from 1,838 meters up. She gets off at the valley station of the Wendelstein cable car and will continue to the summit on foot.
Gradually, the bus empties out. While more than half the seats were occupied at Ostbahnhof, most are now free. But it’s not always like this. In principle, demand is “very good, but also highly dependent on the weather,” says a spokesperson for the MVV (Munich Transport and Tariff Association). Since last year, the Alpine Club’s pilot project has been integrated into the MVV network. In addition to line “396” to Thiersee, there is a second line. Those who board the 996 mountain bus in Pasing can visit the Wieskirche Pilgrimage Church or Neuschwanstein Castle. Both lines operate on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays. According to the MVV, more than 7,000 excursionists used the two services in 2024. This season, which runs until early November, that number could be even higher.
The 396 is nearing its destination. The closer it gets to Thiersee, the emptier the bus becomes. The roads are quieter now too. The driver safely navigates the multi-ton vehicle on its three axles around the increasingly tight curves. Mobile phone reception gets worse. Anyone looking out the window instead of at their smartphone screen sees old farmhouses and balconies adorned with magnificent geraniums. On the slopes, farmers cut grass with special mowers that remain stable even on steep terrain.
With these sights, the nearly two-hour journey feels much shorter. In Hinterthiersee—a village with many guesthouses but no supermarket—only Alex, his wife, and daughter remain on the bus. The family gets off and heads first to the hiking map posted next to the parish church. the roughly six-kilometer “Modal-Runde” loop they plan to hike isn’t marked on it. No matter. “We’ll find it,” says Alex.
The driver parks his bus in a parking lot and takes his well-deserved lunch break. Around 4 p.m., he gets behind the wheel for the last time that day, closes the doors, and sets off. Alex and his family are on board again too. They found their “Modal-Runde” and are sitting safe, sound, and deeply relaxed on the bus. They have to say goodbye to the Tyrolean mountains for today. The doors close. Departure for Munich’s Ostbahnhof.
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