At the Felshof winery in Sommerhausen, the Wenninger family is already hard at work. “Temperatures are higher than they were ten years ago. Grapes just ripen faster,” explained winemaker Michael Wenninger as he quickly drops one cluster after another into his bucket. Together with his twin brother, he cultivates twelve hectares of vineyards in Sommerhausen.
Earlier Start, Faster Pace
The desired sugar levels are now reached much more quickly, putting pressure on vintners. “In the past, we harvested over six weeks. Now it’s at most three,” Wenninger said. The first grapes for Federweißer (young wine) and sparkling wine bases have already been picked, while the official opening of the harvest will take place next Wednesday in Würzburg.
Family Effort Under High Pressure
Harvest season is a strenuous time for the entire family. “It’s stressful for everyone,” said Alexandra Wenninger. “But we know what good things will come of it in the fall.” Only once the grapes are safely in the cellar can the winemakers breathe a sigh of relief.
As soon as one vineyard is cleared, the next one is waiting—the grapes must go straight into the press. “Everything is very ripe for this time of year. Next week, we’ll really have to hurry,” said Andreas Wenninger. The grapes currently look promising, but a sudden change in weather could still ruin the vintage.
Sales Crisis Hits Franconian Wine
In addition to challenges from nature, the market also worries vintners. Wine consumption in Germany is declining, while competition from abroad is increasing. “Out of ten bottles of wine consumed, six come from abroad,” said Artur Steinmann, president of the Franconian Winegrowers’ Association. “Mostly from France, Italy, or Spain.”
Local winemakers say they would appreciate more patriotism for regional wines. At the same time, many consumers are buying more consciously—sometimes choosing less wine or cheaper bottles, confirmed Andreas Wenninger.
Hope for High Quality
That’s why this year’s vintage is crucial for Franconian winemakers. Rising costs and demanding work—especially in steep vineyards—are putting many operations under strain. All the more reason for families to hope for a strong vintage to give them momentum.
The outlook remains encouraging: winemakers and the Franconian Winegrowers’ Association expect cool, fruity wines with fresh acidity. But ultimately, it’s the weather that will decide whether these hopes come true. Until then, life for vintners will take place almost entirely among the vines.
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